Fran Dunaway is the CEO and Co-Founder of TomboyX, a gender neutral apparel company. In 2013 Fran and her wife Naomi Gonzalez founded TomboyX, which has since become a leading designer of clothing that caters to LGBTQ+ and plus sized customers. In addition to being gender inclusive, TomboyX apparel is also size inclusive and sustainable. We talked to Fran about the fashion industry’s resistance to size inclusivity, the importance of designing for underrepresented communities, and how to launch and grow a values-driven fashion brand.
Q: When did you begin designing clothing for all sizes and why was that a priority for you? How does your focus on size inclusivity interact with other types of inclusivity that you and your brand prioritize?
There are many subtle ways of being othered, and size exclusivity was a form of othering that we were uncomfortable with. We wanted to ensure that our values were built into every decision we made from the very beginning. So right out of the gate, we offered size inclusivity.
We began with XS through 4X, and now we offer 3XS through 6X. We recognized that even within our initial size range, there were still unmet needs on either end of the continuum, so we expanded our range even further.
Q: What were some of the challenges that you faced when expanding your designs to inclusive sizing?
The challenge was twofold. First, it was just the standard operating procedure. When we approached our first factory about extended sizing, they said it would cost more, and we’d have to charge our customers more.
My wife and I co-founded the company without any background in the industry. Fortunately, our first employee, who became like a third partner, had 30 years of production and merchandising experience. We made it clear to her that we weren’t going to charge more for extended sizes, as that would be a subtle form of othering and shaming. And we told the factory they had to figure out how to do extended sizing in the same run.
Even when we launched into underwear, there were subtle differences in sizing. It wasn’t as simple as grading up from a standard size – and we started at a large, while most fashion brands start at a zero or two and grade up from there.
We tweaked the patterns to make them work for various body shapes. A 4X on a 6’ tall person and a 4X on a 5’3” person are very different from one another. We had to be cognizant of the fabrics, elasticity, cuts, stitches, and seams to accommodate different body types. Our production specialist, Julia, was a stickler for details and worked hard to get it right.
The second challenge is that most brands are built around the idea of aspiration, wanting customers to aspire to be cool like them. We never felt that way. Instead, we took a reflective approach, celebrating our customers as they are and wanting them to feel good from the inside out. It’s a very different conversation when you’re focusing on making people feel good about who they are, rather than trying to make them aspire to be like you.
Q: It’s interesting that you see your brand as “reflective,” rather than aspirational. Do you think this reflective approach could become a broader trend in the industry, selling just as well as the “aspire to be cool” brand image, or is there a fundamental difference between the two strategies?
I can’t forecast whether this approach will become a broader shift in the industry. I see many companies doing well with their aspirational messaging, especially in a world of TikTok and selfies where everyone wants that kind of attention.
I don’t know if there’s a sea change coming, but I know that our approach works for us and aligns with the brand we want to be. It works well that our primary product is underwear because you can put on your armor in the morning, feel good from the inside out, and face the world.
Q: How do you think about inclusivity, as a broader concept? Is the objective of an inclusive brand to fill gaps in current fashion or simply to create as much of a range as possible?
We get our best ideas from our customers, so we try to keep a pulse on their needs. We frequently survey and review customer comments, and our customer service team makes recommendations based on product requests.
When we decided to extend our sizing to 6X, we brought in a focus group of customers who measured as 6X on our size chart. For that group, we ended up using a waistband almost twice the size of our standard sizing to ensure it worked the same way and didn’t roll. We make these adjustments as a matter of course and don’t charge extra for it, even though there are added expenses. For us, it’s about how it feels when you don’t have to go to a separate plus-size section or drop-down menu for “women” or other categories when you’re not part of the norm.
While we rely on our customer base, we also make choices that align with our values in terms of what we produce. For example, we make sure to carry compression tops, tucking underwear, and packing underwear for our trans community. Even though it’s not the bulk of our business, it’s part of our core customer base, and we’re committed to addressing their needs.
Q: Why do you think that other fashion brands are not designing for a greater range of bodies?
From the very beginning, we focused not only on inclusivity but also on attention to detail and comfort. If you’re focused on comfort and fit while considering your target demographic, you’ll recognize that extended sizing is critical. 68% of women are size 14 or over. Many companies have attempted to jump into extended sizing, but if they’re not focused on fit and quality, they’re going to miss the mark.
It’s not just a matter of grading up from a regular pattern; it’s about addressing the specific needs of different sizes, especially with undergarments. For example, we introduced a nine-inch length boxer brief that many women wear under skirts or uniforms to prevent chafing. Addressing those real needs and continually innovating is critical.
Q: TomboyX is also committed to sustainable fashion: you have OEKO-Tex certifications for your cotton products, you use BCI-certified cotton suppliers, and you also have manufacturers with Fair Labor credentials. How do you think about your commitment to sustainable fashion alongside your commitment to inclusivity? Do these two values ever come into conflict with each other?
When we started the company, we weren’t strong capitalists. We just wanted to ensure that our values were imbued in every decision we made. Our views on capitalism have changed, but our views on sustainability have not!
From the beginning, we didn’t want to be a fast fashion company. We wanted to build quality products that would stay in your closet for a long time and not end up in a landfill after a few months. This commitment to sustainability can lead to slightly higher prices for some products, but that’s the cost of our commitment to the environment.
When we switched from an S Corp to a B Corp last year, the process wasn’t as challenging as it would be for companies that didn’t start with a focus on sustainability. We didn’t have to change the way we did business, as we always ensured we worked with factories paying a living wage and used less water and non-toxic chemicals.
These choices are a reflection of who Naomi and I are at our cores. There was never a conflict between sustainability and inclusivity because those were our values and standards.
At some point, we even stopped working with a factory that could never quite understand that we did not care about pricing as much as we cared about quality and sustainability. We only work with partners who understand and share our values on these issues.
Q: If you had one piece of advice for someone seeking to start — or support — an inclusive fashion brand, what would it be?
I would say quickly develop a strong relationship with your core customers to gain a keen understanding of their needs and wants. Then, make sure that you build your company based on your values and what’s important to you.
For us, it was easy because we’re part of the LGBTQ community. When we started, no one had ever asked the LGBTQ community what they wanted in fashion. When you hand a microphone to people who have never been listened to, they talk and talk. So it was easy for us to listen, and to then incorporate their feedback into all our decisions going forward.
Our customer care team ends all meetings with customer reviews. Our CEO reads these reviews just so we don’t forget why we’re here and how we got here.